Michael's Wine Diary

A masterclass by the Association of Italian Sommeliers

Malvasia is one of Italy's great white grapes - naturally rich yet adaptable enough in style to suit different wine purposes. The Eolian Islands off the northern coast of Sicily are a natural home to Malvasia, and the Italian Cultural Institute in London's Belgrave Square provided the perfect venue on June 17th for the Association of Italian Sommeliers to show us the great grape's contrasting, captivating faces, in their Mediterranean setting. The seven Eolian islands were formed as they rose from submarine volcanoes, seven million years ago. Salina, named after the greenness of the vines, is the largest of the seven isles and the main producer of Malvasia wines and capers, its other great crop. The still active volcano on Stromboli is a beacon, a “lighthouse” for shipping weaving its way through the islands that include Panarea, Alicadi and Filicadi, all with their picturesque charms. But it is Lipari, the second largest isle, that gives it name to all the Eolian vineyards' wines. Of the 90 hectares (ha.) of vines planted, 46 are governed by the DOC Malvasia di Lipari disciplinare; 70 per cent are classified as passito or straw' wines, the grapes laid out on mats, so that they shrivel and accumulate more sugar. The remainder is either naturale or intensely sweet liquoroso wines.

Lipari island

The Tasting

Four Malvasia di Lipari were served, a tasting that clearly differentiated the major styles. I have scored each wine out of a maximum of 20

-Capo di Faro 2008 *  this is Tasca d'Almeirita's Estate on Salina. As you would expect from this distinguished family, here is a wine with a modern elegance in excellent balance with the residual sugar of a passito wine. Brilliant, luminous gold; subtle scents of broom, honey and apricots all melded together to make a real sense of freshness. Mineral character on the palate, an impression of the seaside. A very versatile wine, as good with blue cheese as with an apricot flan. 17

-Caravaglio 2008  more amber, darker colour. Much sweeter, more sugar, later picked, riper fruit, the honeyed sensation is almost saccharine. A liquoroso style that may intimidate the English palate, but well enough made. Okay if you like the flavour of dates! 15

-Marchetta 2008 gold-amber. A sulphury, volcanic influence -coming from the soils -  pervades the flavours. Better than it sounds, for this character tempers the strong taste of honey. Nice hint of licorice. Very good, distinctive 16.5

-Fennica 2007   a very traditional style with less times drying on mats. Very complex aromas of sage, spices and the rocks & shrubland of Lipari making a fascinating nose and mouthful. The Champion today. 17.5

* Capo di Faro is available from Berkmann Wine Cellars – www.berkmannwinecellars.co.uk
Ends 460 words michael edwards 28.vi.2010