Michael's Wine Diary

Hôtel du Marc, Reims 25 May 2012

The impetus for this occasion realised by Veuve Clicquot was the raising in 2010 of venerable bottles of champagne from the bottom of the Baltic Sea, off the coast of the Åland archipelago.  Though theVCP ‘1839’ was the intended climax of the day, the bottle we tasted was not in the condition we had hoped for. Luckily, the showing of some of the Widow’s greatest wines from the 20^th century made this a great moment indeed. And all in the presence of the current Chef de Cave Dominique Demarville and his two great predecessors, Jacques Péters and Charles Lahaye, now in his 91^st year.  

The Tasting (in sequential order)

Yellow label (blanc) Base 2008 -Luminous green gold –a fine medley of life-giving acidity ripe fruit and multi-layered mineral flavours. Classic balance. More expressive than Yellow Label Blends of recent years pre- 08 - the re-introduction of a soupcon of oak fermentation seems to have done the trick. Excellent. 17

Yellow Label (Rosé) Base 2008 – rose-petal/salmon. As you’d expect from one of the two best vintages of the’noughties forming the base, there’s  a lot of wine here for your dollar. Yet typical of the unhurried pace of Pinot Noir to express itself, the latent richness of red orchard fruits is still tight and contained. But what vigour and vinosity lie ahead- behind the veil of youth today. A lovely bottle, come2013/ 2014 .  17.5

La Grande Dame Rosé 1988 - subtle evolving colour, salmon ceding to  mature tuile  rim. Complex nose, acidity melding with crystallized red stone-fruits (cherries?) and a Burgundian touch of undergrowth .  Exceptional poised vinosity, like fine Volnay (with bubbles), perfect balance.  Great wine 19

La Grande Dame

La Grande Dame (blanc) 1962  ­- old gold, reflects its fermentation in oak in this first vintage of Grande Dame.  As Charles Lahaye says “ the main impression is one of walking down into the cellar, the whiff of oak unmistakable.” Still a complex Champagne, citrus character as evident as orchard fruits, reflecting the slightly higher proportion of Chardonnay. Makes excellent drinking now 17

Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label NV1953 Base – luminous green-gold. Aged sur lie under a clamped cork. Late-disgorged November 2008.  Amazingly fresh, vital and alive – black grapes power and chardonnay delicacy in textbook balance with a swirling  mousse. Remarkable, in the fullness of its life. 18

Veuve Clicquot Rosé 1947 – russet/bronze, tawny rim.  Extraordinary density and ripe maturity of grapes (12◦ + natural abv!) typical of this wonderful sunny vintage.  Impressively unctuous but not cloying; the vinosity of great old Pinot sings to the taster, a real vino di contemplazione. Still a giant. 18.5

Veuve Clicquot  1904  - disgorged mid 1950s.  Good colour, still clearish gold. Tertiary aromas, peat-like with a fine whiff akin to old malt whisky. Rich arresting palate, vinous, a touch of caramel, still fresh. Holding up 17

Veuve Clicquot de la Mer Baltique circa. 1839. This wine had to be re-corked with 11 others; one suspects considerable bottle variation. This one emitted an off-putting whiff of old Champenois cheese (Brie de Meaux or an overripe Maroilles). It did have some fizz, popping when opened. Intensely sweet (dosage 149 grams of sugar/litre) with flavours unfamiliar to the modern drinkers. Charles Lahaye says that it could well have had elements like Pinots Meslier and Blanc and Arbanne, common in this pre-phylloxera period 14

© Michael Edwards